Gauchere. Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
The 38 looks of the GAUCHERE Fall Winter 2023 collection declare the houses continual direction to focus on the per- son who is wearing the garment and their real-life existence. For the second time in a row, Marie-Christine Statz decided for the atmosphere of the Passage des Jacobins as the ideal place to reflect the mood of the collection.
The toned-down colour code is built on a palette of different greys, shades of light brown, cream, white and lots of black.The mainly monochrome looks are accentuated by a bright grass green print. Marie-Christine Statz extracted the motif from an untitled work that Camille Henrot painted in 2022. It was transformed on sand coloured viscose resem- bling canvas.The oversized shirt, mid-length skirt and sleeveless top are constructed with placed slits that form their individual shapes and reshape the artwork in movement.
The growing bond and stimulating dialogue between Marie-Christine Statz and Camille Henrot led to a series of black & white looks including a Pyjama one that could have been worn by Schnabel or Basquiat in the 1980s with an all-over pattern of Henrots erotic drawings, arranged in dangerous promiscuity.
As per DNA, tailoring provides the essence and larger part of the winter collection.This season, the garments inherent precise silhouettes are broken up by seamed slits on coats, jackets, skirts, and trousers. Fabrics with different weights such as classic Italian menswear pinstripes and heavier loden fabrics alternate in one piece and modify the shape. Open edges and large pleats deconstruct dresses, blazers, and knits. All these precise manipulations of the garments come to life in dif- ferent ways - depending on the individual who wears them.
Washed-out grey denim jackets and trousers play with volume and pleats. Asymmetric ribbed, pleated or skin-tight knits are made of 90s vintage yarn. Shiny lacquered cotton, patent linen and sequins are shown in off-the-shoulder dresses, high waisted trousers and bubble tops. Black leather, textured brushed wool, techno or cotton jerseys, and semi-transparent soft wool serge are cut into oversized turtleneck sweaters and draped into floor long backless dresses, midi skirts and cropped tops with a boyish femininity.
GAUCHERE is a French prt--porter house founded in 2013 by the designer Marie-Christine Statz. Her vision is to create garments that point out the individual.At the heart of GAUCHERE is the art of tailoring,the appreciation of materials as they are and the translation in pure geometric structures and sculptural volumes. Marie-Christines intuitive designs are expressing the mood of today while aiming for permanence and timelessness.
The GAUCHERE community is progressive. It is an active participant in todays society.Live and let live is not just a phrase for them but an attitude towards life.
Runway looks
Text and Photo: Press Gauchere.
More on: @gauchere
Thanks: RITUAL PROJECTS @ritualprojectsparis
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad