SHIATZY CHEN SPRING/SUMMER 2025 COLLECTION
Stroke of Brilliance
SHIATZY CHEN SS2025 collection will be revealed on September 30 at 14:30 Paris time at our favorite center for contemporary art in Paris, the Palais de Tokyo. With Sense of Ink leading the concept in the previous season, we dive into the canvas with vibrant flair, seeking the beginning of the ink that flows like a choreographed affair, opening the first scene of this season with the calligraphy and painting, a rhythm unique to the Oriental culture.
The blue water is ever so clear; the pen adds in the final touch. Design Director Shiatzy Chen sees the importance of writing brushes to Chinese culture and the world outside of writing; hence in the images inspired, 'from the nib springs not only blooms, it's a symphony of sights, mountains, rivers, birds, and starry nights.' The SS2025 subverts the pen entirely with boundless imaginations and an authentic mind, embedding the pen-like iris into designs, subtly echoing the theme silhouette, and witnessing infinite possibilities airily and beautifully blooming from the inspiring nib.
In decrypting the runway show, the pen is wielded freely yet intentionally, as if announcing the opening of the runway show with the movement of the pen. The dance-like forms on the runway are scripts written, pictures drawn, and a long river of the language used. With the neutral colors of celadon, khaki, and soft yellow in this collection balancing the hefty dark ink, the translucent red in white is spotted amidst the spread of neutral tones. Different materials are widely used, including light woolen tassels and coating to contrast the soft and flying strokes of the writing brush, referencing the straight silhouette and low-waist cut of the 1920s while remaining upbeat but not flamboyant. The 'dragonfly' and 'iris' are the main roles in this season, echoing the pen and the stroke of brilliance. The dragonfly is sewn on with hollowed dragonfly carving, topaz, white shell flower, and black onyx, while iris embroidery patterns are used on a large scale; the exquisite craftsmanship whispers the airy and breezy strokes of the Spring/Summer collection.
The pen not only spells the shape but conveys the meaning, as if telling a story but actually embedding in its silence the design language that embodies both the contemporary and the traditional, Oriental and Western, retro and new. The Chinese style bellyband and diagonal lapel vests are essential items resonating with the beaded vest and tank dress with a short hem of the 1920s, transformed into more luxurious forms without the restraints of culture or history. The ornaments are inspired by the soft yet sharp features of the writing brush, used on shoes and as accessories. The metal heels embody the strokes of the writing brush, a symbol of the soft yet forceful spirit of Oriental culture, while the accessories see the nib and strokes turned into streamlined collars, asymmetrical earrings, and waist chains, sleek with a hint of poetry. SHIATZY CHEN has long been designing bags with jade bangle handles, and the latest Paint Brush Jade Bangle Handle portrays the vigor and curve of the brush, symbolizing the long river of words and the unseen force of scripts.
With the pen wielded and laid down, the SS2025 connects the cultural memory and aesthetics unique to the Oriental world, manifesting both the gentle and powerful sides of the writing brush, the elegance and spirit of the pen fully captured and reflected in every item, painting onward the Oriental SHIATZY CHEN style.
Runway Looks
Photos: Press SHIATZY CHEN
More on: @shiatzychen
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad